The shock cord provided is brand new 100% elongation, after a few uses the shock cord will relax and be easier to use. Just like a new rubber band is tight to begin with so is the new shock cord.
Following are general instructions for set-up of your UGQ Zeppelin Under Quilt. With practice you will learn to "DIAL" the suspension into your particular hammock.
1) Locate the two white tabs on the inside of the quilt towards one end, this is the head end of the quilt for reference during the instructions. Inner shell should be placed against the hammock body. Attach S-Biners at both ends of under quilt suspension to hammock suspension.
2) Primary Suspension: Runs the entire length of the under quilt along both sides. Tighten the primary suspension by pulling shock cord through large cord lock located on head end S-Biner. The purpose of the primary suspension is to provide "LIFT" and pull the under quilt up snug to your back and bottom. If you are experiencing "Cold Butt Syndrome" tighten the primary suspension to draw the quilt up.
3) Secondary Suspension: This is the white shock cord attached to the four corners of the quilt. Adjust secondary suspension as needed to locate the quilt on the hammock as desired and to prevent the quilt from sliding towards the center of the hammock from both ends. To adjust locate cord lock on inside corners of the quilt, there are a total of four, and adjust as needed. Tuck excess shock cord into quilt for a clean appearance.
4) Head/Foot Draws: These need to be snug but not overly tight, adjust as needed and be sure draft collars are tucked inside the quilt to help eliminate gapping. Tuck excess shock cord into quilt for a clean appearance.
Excess shock cord may be cut as desired, we ship long to accommodate a variety of hammocks.
To vent your under quilt simply loosen either the head, foot, or both draws to allow warm air to rise out and cool air to drop in.
CARE AND USE RECOMMENDATIONS: With proper use and care your UGQ Quilts will provide years of service. The quilts are made with high quality materials but will still need care from time to time. Below are suggestions for proper use and care of your quilts to ensure a long and useful life of the quilt.
STORING: After each trip, dry your quilts before storing. Either air dry the quilts for 24 hrs. or place in a large dryer for one hour, turn the dial to the AIR DRY setting, and start feeding in the quarters. DO NOT use any heat as you may damage or scorch the shell fabrics. Never store your quilts in its itty-bitty stuff sack! The longer you compress the insulation, the more loft it loses. It's fine to use a stuff sack-even a compression stuff sack-on the trail, but the minute you get home, get your quilts out of that confined space, give them a good shake to fluff up the fill material, then store it in a cool, dry place. Spread it out under your bed, hang it in a closet, or put it in a big, breathable storage bag. If you don't have such a sack, use a king-size pillowcase.
WASHING: Wash your quilts when they gets stinky, dirty, or loses a noticeable amount of loft, but not after every trip. For most people, this means every 12-14 nights of use the quilts will need to be washed. The higher quality the more important this is to retain down loft. Don't dry-clean your quilts, because the harsh chemicals wreak havoc on the materials. Top Quilts will need more regular washing as the contact with the body will transfer more oils and dirt to the quilt. For Under Quilts remove all suspension prior to washing and reinstall when dry. For safe and thorough cleaning, head to your local laundry and use a jumbo, front-loading washer. The agitators that churn clothes in most top loading home washing machines can twist and damage insulation fibers and baffle materials (baffles inside your quilts hold the insulation in place). Use warm water, the gentle cycle, and ¼ cup of a mild powdered detergent such as Woolite or products specifically design for down garments such as Nik Wax Down Wash.
DRYING: Select a large tumble dryer before the wash cycle has completed. Inspect inside the drum for burrs and anything that could catch your quilts shell and tear it. Run the dryer through one complete cycle on NO HEAT setting to verify temperature selector is working properly. If not select another dryer and repeat. Carefully lift your wet quilt out of the washing machine and carry it over to dryer. It’s important that you support the whole quilt in your hands or lay it on a cart. Your quilt is in a very fragile state when it’s wet. The feathers are saturated with water and can tear through the baffles if they’re unsupported. Toss in 10 to 12 clean tennis balls to help fluff it up. Turn the dial to the NO HEAT, setting, and start feeding in the quarters. Quilts will take anywhere from 1 to 3 hours to dry completely. Check the quilt periodically to make sure the fabric isn't scorching hot and the insulation isn't bunching or clumping.
It is important to use NO HEAT, AIR DRY ONLY, if using a dryer. Even low heat settings may cause damage to the 15denier threads making up your quilt shell. If the quilt gets stuck on the exhaust of the dryer drum the dryer may super heat and scorch the shell fabrics. No a pretty sight to behold...
MAINTENANCE OF DOWN LAEKAGE: By its very nature, the shell fabric of a quilt is porous. This is what allows the fabric to be breathable and as a result, it is possible for the small spines of feathers and down clusters to work their way through the fabric. It is important to realize that the fabric is not torn, but that the spines or down clusters are passing in between the threads. The best maintenance in this situation is to reach behind the fabric and pull the offending down cluster BACK INTO its down chamber. The small space between the threads will close and reposition themselves. You may also gently massage the area to promote this "self sealing". Do not attempt to pull the cluster OUT OF THE QUILT! Two things will happen if you do, 1) that cluster will be tangled with another cluster and it too will follow out of the quilt in an endless fountain of down, and 2) the space between the threads will become larger and take longer to reseal. Rest assured that the fabrics we use are down proof and have the tightest weaves and the highest available thread counts and that performance is in no way compromised.
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